Source: Page 124 of White Noise Keywords: "besides," "catch," "lying"

From: Jerry Howe Subject: Re: jerry howe - HOWE To Catch A Carp Date: 4 Apr 2001 Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs.behavior

Hello lyingdogDUMMY, "Dogman" <dogman@i1.net> wrote in message news:j4kmctg1pq3cmhop140lireaplq8pqsdv8@4ax.com... > "David & Janette Sweeney" <sweeney1@bigpond.com> wrote: > >hi Alison, I believe in treating dogs like dogs, with care and > > dignity, > Besides E-lame Gallant, who here do you think doesn't treat their > dogs with "care and dignity"? HOWE about our "koehler" trainers? > Do you think you're the only SOB who does that? Around here, there's a handful, maybe less. That's why you bums confront every competent trainer who's ever posted here. > Sheeees...your arrogance and self-righteous piety is truly a sight > to behold. Let's not worry about them foreign scumbags. We got some anonymous, lying, dog abusing, cowardly Thugs right here. > > if you have to abuse them to train em, well your not in the same > > race, we have a guy here in a suburb called parkridge who uses > > shock collars for, ( dogs to recall from pursuit, stop them > >barking, make them heel, and do > >obeidience.) he calls himself a dog trainer, I say torturer. > BFD. Yeah, David's obviously a screwball, eh? Let's talk dog training, shall we? > And I say you're an ignorant, arrogant, pompous, self-righteous > Ozzie asshole. And I'm saying you're a lying, dog abusing, coward. > In the hands of a skilled trainer, the e-collar may be the most > humane way yet to train a dog. If you compared shocking to jerking and choking on pronged choke collars and beating dogs with sticks and HANGING them, you're probably right, lyindogDUMMY. That's one helle of an excuse for shocking, that it's LESS CRUEL than choking on prongs and beating and hanging dogs, eh? Good argument. That's why I call you a lying, dog abusing, Thug coward. SEE? EZ stuff, eh? > But ignorant doofuses like yourself should stay completely away > from them, because you just don't have the brains to ever learn > how to use one correctly. That's on account of there ain't no correct ways to HURT dogs to tra in them. > And as long as you imply here that I'm a "torturer," I'm going to call > you a petty, pompous, self-righteous Ozzie asshole and feel pretty > damn good about it. Forget about the pansie from Oz, tell us HOWE you'd break Marty'sand Paul's dogs from eating poo. You said you'd NEED to HURT them MOORE than they'd LIKE. Tell us HOWE, step by step, eh? > >And all is fun in oz, you should follow the yellow brick road > I hope you follow the yellow brick road right over a cliff, where all > you self-righteous buzzards belong. Talk dog training, lyingdogDUMMY. Tell us HOWE, step by step? > > one day and visit, we will throw a prawn ( shrimp ) on the > > barbie for you......David Sweeney > I have visited your country and enjoyed it immensely. That was > apparently before it was taken over by a bunch of petty, pompous > self-righteous assholes like yourself. Yes, he's SCUM, eh? Forget about him, he's just a limey only a little further away. You're right near me. Talk dogs, lyingdogDUMMY. > And you can stick that prawn right up your Ozzie ass. Like I'm schtupping you? Or like I'm schtupping your lying, dog abusing, cowardly Thug pals here??? Hmm? TELL US HOWE you'd HURT our dogs to break a little poo eating, and I'll tell YOU HOWE to get Marty's Carp hook outta your lip... BWWWAAHAHAHAHAHAHAAA!!!!! > Dogman > mailto:dogman@i1.net > http://www.i1.net/~dogman Psychoclown wrote: "Nope. That "beating dogs with sticks" things is something you twisted out of context, because you are full of bizarro manure." "The Koehler Method of Dog Training" , Howell Book House, 1996": "Housebreaking problems: Occasionally, there is a pup who seems determined to relieve himself inside the house, regardless of how often he has the opportunity to go outside. This dog may require punishment. Make certain he is equipped with a collar and piece of line so he can't avoid correction. When you discover a mess, move in fast, take him to the place of his error, and hold his head close enough so that he associates his error with the punishment. Punish him by spanking him with a light strap or switch. Either one is better than a folded newspaper. It is important to your future relationship that you do not rush at him and start swinging before you get hold of him. When he's been spanked, take him outside. Chances are, if you are careful in your feeding and close observation, you will not have to do much punishing. Be consistent in your handling. To have a pup almost house-broken and then force him to commit an error by not providing an opportunity to go outside is very unfair. Careful planning will make your job easier. The same general techniques of housebreaking apply to grown dogs that are inexperienced in the house. For the grown dog who was reliable in the house and then backslides, the method of correction differs somewhat. In this group of "backsliders" we have the "revenge piddler." This dog protests being alone by messing on the floor and often in the middle of a bed. The first step of correction is to confine the dog closely in a part of the house when you go away, so that he is constantly reminded of his obligation. The fact that he once was reliable in the house is proof that the dog knows right from wrong, and it leaves you no other course than to punish him sufficiently to convince him that the satisfaction of his wrongdoing is not worth the consequences. If the punishment is not severe enough, some of these "backsliders" will think they're winning and will continue to mess in the house. An indelible impression can sometimes be made by giving the dog a hard spanking of long duration, then leaving him tied by the mess he's made so you can come back at twenty minute intervals and punish him again for the same thing. In most cases, the dog that deliberately does this disagreeable thing cannot be made reliable by the light spanking that some owners seem to think is adequate punishment. It will be better for your dog, as well as the house, if you really pour it on him. Some of the new "breaking scents" on the market can aid in your house-breaking program. One type discourages the dog from even visiting an area. Another encourages him to relieve himself in the area where it is sprinkled. Your pet shop should be able to supply further information on the brands available in your district. Be fair to your dog in what and when you feed him and be consistent in your efforts to housebreak him, and you'll soon accomplish the job. BARKING, WHINING, HOWLING, YODELING, SCREAMING, AND WAILING The fact that you realize you have such a problem makes it certain you have "reproved" the dog often enough to let him know you were against his sound effects, even though your reproving didn't quiet them, so we'll bypass the loudly clapped hands, the cup of water in his face, and the "shame-shames" and start with something more emphatic. We'll begin with the easiest kind of vocalist to correct: the one that charges gates, fences, doors, and windows, barking furiously at familiar or imaginary people and objects. A few clusters of BBs from a good slingshot, in conjunction with the light line and plenty of temptations, will cause such a dog to use his mind rather than his mouth. But you won't make the permanent impression unless you supply dozens of opportunities for him to exercise the control he thus acquires. Make sure these opportunities don't always come at the same time of the day, else he may learn to observe the "quiet hour" and pursue his old routines at other times. With the help of the light line, it will be easy to follow the BBs with a long down to make sure he gets the most from his lesson. As was mentioned before, eliminating the senseless barking will not lessen the dog's value as a watchdog but rather, as he grows more discriminating, increase it. The dog who vocalizes in bratty protest or lonesomeness because you're gone constitutes a different problem. If it is impractical for someone to stay with him constantly (there are owners who cater to neurosis by employing dog sitters), you'll have to heed the neighbors and the law and quiet the dog. This calls for a little ingenuity as well as a heavy hand. Attach a line to your dog's collar, so your corrective effort doesn't turn into a footrace around the house until you reach a stalemate under the bed. This use of the line in the correction will also serve to establish it as a reminder to be quiet as the dog drags it around when you're not present. Next, equip yourself with a man's leather belt or a strap heavy enough to give your particular dog a good tanning. Yup-we're going to strike him. Real hard. Remember, you're dealing with a dog who knows he should be quiet and neighbors who have legal rights to see that he does. When the noise comes, instead of trying to sneak up to the door so you can barge in while he's still barking, which is generally impossible, respond to his first sound with an emphatic bellow of "out," and keep on bellowing as you charge back to his area. Thunder through the door or gate, snatch up the belt that you've conveniently placed, and descend on him. He'll have no chance to dodge if you grab the line and reel him in until his front feet are raised off the floor or, if he's a big dog, until you've snubbed him up with a hitch on something. While he's held in close, lay the strap vigorously against his thighs. Keep pouring it on him until he thinks it's the bitter end. A real whaling now may cut down somewhat on the number of repeat performances that will be necessary. When you're finished and the dog is convinced that he is, put him on a long down to think things over while you catch your breath. After fifteen or twenty minutes, release him from the stay and leave the area again. So that you won't feel remorseful, reflect on the truth that a great percentage of the barkers who are given away to "good homes" end up in the kindly black box with the sweet smell. Personally, I've always felt that it's even better to spank children, even if they "cry out," than to "put them to sleep." You might have a long wait on that comfortable porch before your dog starts broadcasting again. When he does, let your long range bellow tie the consequent correction to his first sound and repeat the spanking, if anything emphasizing it a bit more. It might be necessary to spend a Saturday or another day off so that you'll have time to follow through sufficiently. When you have a full day, you will be able to convince him each yelp will have a bad consequence, and the consistency will make your job easier. If he gets away with his concert part of the time, he'll be apt to gamble on your inconsistency. After a half dozen corrections, "the reason and the correction" will be tied in close enough association so that you can move in on him without the preliminary bellowing of "out." From then on, it's just a case of laying for the dog and supplying enough bad consequences of his noise so he'll no longer feel like gambling. If there has been a long history of barking and whining, it sometimes requires a lot of work to make a dog be quiet when you're not around, so give the above method an honest try before you presume your dog requires a more severe correction. Thunder through the door or gate, snatch up the belt that you've conveniently placed, and descend on him. He'll have no chance to dodge if you grab the line and reel him in until his front feet are raised off the floor or, if he's a big dog, until you've snubbed him up with a hitch on something. While he's held in close, lay the strap vigorously against his thighs. Keep pouring it on him until he thinks it's the bitter end. A real whaling now may cut down somewhat on the number of repeat performances that will be necessary. When you're finished and the dog is convinced that he is, put him on a long down to think things over while you catch your breath. After fifteen or twenty minutes, release him from the stay and leave the area again." Amy lyingfrosty Dahl LIES with a straight face and says: "I don't beat dogs, twist ears, or pinch toes. For the benefit of anyone who is in doubt, and who chooses not to read the article, there is NO mention in it of twisting ears. I would never slap a dog. I would never advise anyone to slap a dog. I do not believe there is a single circumstance, ever, where slapping a dog is anything but destructive." RIGHT. She PINCHES, not twists... and chin cuff doesn't mean hit, it means slap. amy lyingfrosty dahl continues: "Get a stick 30- or 40-inches long. You can have a helper wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher, less tractable dogs may require you to progress to striking them more sharply. With your hand on the collar and ear, say, "fetch." Immediately tap the dog on the hindquarters with the stick. Repeat "fetch" and pinch the ear all the way to the dummy. Repeat, varying how hard you hit the dog," "Now you are ready to progress to what most people think of as force-fetching: the ear pinch. Make the dog's need to stop the pinching so urgent that resisting your will fades in importance. but will squeal, thrash around, and direct their efforts to escaping the ear pinch You can press the dog's ear with a shotshell instead of your thumb even get a studded collar and pinch the ear against that Say "fetch" while pressing the dummy against its lips and pinching its ear. if the dog still does not open its mouth, get out the shotshell. Try pinching the ear between the metal casing and the collar, even the buckle on the collar. Persist! Eventually, the dog will give in" Gotta LOVE koehler. dahl makes koheler look like St. Francis. Got Milk?

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